Early morning, rise and shine – it’s hiking day. I’m still working my way through the bread I brought from Portland. It’s so loaded with preservatives that archaeologists will probably dig it up intact in 200 years. 🤣
Hiking trousers, hiking shoes, drinks, and a banana in the backpack, and I’m ready to go… after a quick chat with my host, because small talk seems to be a U.S. specialty. Then it’s an hour’s drive east of Seattle.
Navigating through the suburbs is easy enough with Google Maps, and soon I’m on I-90 heading east. I realize I never actually explained what I’m after today: one of the four geocaches every geocacher dreams of finding – the APE cache.
What’s the APE cache?
The one near Seattle is officially called Mission 9: Tunnel of Light, hidden in the Cascade Mountains as part of a 2001 promotion for the Planet of the Apes movie. The “APE” stands for Alternative Primate Evolution.
Only 14 official Project APE caches were ever hidden worldwide, in collaboration with 20th Century Fox to help popularize geocaching. Today, just two remain – this one in North America and another deep in the Brazilian jungle, which is a bit harder to reach.
The Seattle-area cache is known for the unique way you get there. You can either hike or bike through the long, pitch-dark Snoqualmie Tunnel, or take a slightly shorter hike from a different trailhead. I bought a headlamp and planned to use the tunnel, so I drove to Hyak, the trail’s starting point.
Outside the city, passing Issaquah again, I climb into the mountains. The scenery is stunning, though the 6–8 lane highway cutting through it – and the rough maintenance – would shock most Europeans.
At Hyak, I park, pay the $10 state park fee, and notice a bike event happening, though otherwise it’s quiet. I head toward the tunnel… then change my mind at the last moment. It’s over 4 km long, pitch black, and today there’s nobody else around. Even with my headlamp, I’d have no backup if something happened.
No shame in turning back. I drive west about 11 km to Exit 47, then follow a rough forest road where I’m glad to have a 4×4 – some potholes could swallow a person. The parking lot isn’t far, but there’s another fee here. Since this wasn’t planned, I have to sort it out on my phone with spotty signal. Their app is useless without a U.S. address, but eventually I find the right ticket in their online shop. $5 via Google Pay, and instead of a printable pass (in the middle of the forest? really?) I just keep the confirmation on my phone and write the details on a piece of paper which is placed visible in my car.
From the lot, three trails start. My geocaching app tells me to take the middle one: the Annette Lake Trail. Elevation gain is only 175 meters, steady but not steep. Still, with the temperature at 28°C, I’m sweating like a pig. The forest offers some shade, but the exposed sections are brutal.
At the trailhead, there’s a sign advising campers how to store food so bears can’t get to it. As a real Björn, I’m appalled at the suggestion to hide honey from me. 😂
I take breaks when needed and keep hydrated. It’s a beautiful hike – different from the novelty of a long, dark tunnel, but peaceful in its own way. Only downside: you hear the bloody highway the whole time.
At the top, the trail meets the old railway line (the one that also passes through the tunnel), now called the Palouse to Cascades State Park Trail. Here, I meet friendly cyclists – everyone greets me – friendly folks. The path is flat now, just 1.4 km to my goal. I grab one other cache along the way before rounding a bend and finally spotting it: the APE cache. A huge ammo can tucked among rocks and wood. Log signed, photo taken, banana eaten – mission APE complete.
The descent is easier, just watching my footing. Back at the car, it’s still 28°C. I replenish fluids – AC never felt so good.
Dinner is the next priority. I had a Thai place in Issaquah in mind, but it’s too early – they don’t open until 16:30. I stop in North Bend instead. There’s an outlet center (nothing special) and a Safeway with blissfully cold air conditioning – perfect since it’s now 33°C.
I stock up on groceries. Prices are Norwegian-level expensive, but at checkout I ask if non-residents can get a store membership. The answer: yes, as long as you have a U.S. phone number – which I do via my T-Mobile SIM. Instantly, I’m a member, get $2.40 back, and now qualify for 2-for-1 deals and other discounts. They didn’t even ask for a name or ID. I’m not complaining.
Finally, I make it to Issaquah for dinner. The restaurant – Khao San Thai Cuisine – is already filling up minutes after opening, which is always a good sign. I order Pad Thai with Udon noodles (excellent choice) and, for the first time ever, Mango Sticky Rice. The mango is fiber-free and perfectly ripe. Delicious. Also my most expensive dinner so far this trip. (contact me if you want to sponsor my travels🤣)
Back toward Seattle, there’s a short queue into the city, nothing major. The driving style here – lane hopping without blinkers and passing on both sides – is something I’m slowly getting used to – and might have to unlearn like passing on the right side.
Back at the Airbnb, I realize my hiking shoes are too tight, causing pain in my right foot. I’ve already ditched all my regular shoes that did this, so I might need to shop for alternatives.
After the heat and the hike, I’m wiped out. Lights out at 22:00 – you can guess what that will mean for tomorrow morning. 😏